Razo beach is absolutely enormous with crystal clear blue water, crashing Atlantic Ocean waves and cashmere sand, it’s just fab. We’ve rented a house for 4 nights in the tiny village of Razo de Costa 5 minutes up the hill from the beach and we’re looking forward to some time in the waves if the weather plays it part. Razo is part of the infamous Galician Costa da Morte region and consists of rocky headlands, winding inlets, small fishing villages towns, plunging cliffs, sweeping bays and numerous sandy beaches. This is the eerily beautiful ‘Coast of Death’, the westernmost outpost of mainland Spain, where mysteries and legends abound. It’s a sparsely populated area and predominantly unspoilt. Inland, narrow lanes twist and turn amongst woodlands between imposing stone hamlets clustered around large ancient churches in the folds of green undulating hills. I almost want to keep our days exploring the Galician coast a secret, it’s so alluring and tranquil and above all, it’s almost empty. A brilliant antidote to big city living.
We spend most of our days at Razo, in the crashing waves of the Atlantic body boarding. The beauty of having the car means we’ve loaded it to the gunnels. We start in our long spring/autum wetsuits but as the days pass and the temperatures increase we pull on our shorties. The waves are just perfect!! This is our happy place. After a day at the beach it’s huge langoustines for dinner every night – we bought 2 kilos for 22 Euros – and plough through them accompanied by lush mixed salad and chilled Rosé. Life could be worse, we remember to savour these times.
On one of our days here, we put the bikes back onto the car and take a cycle along another one of the Vias Verde routes, this time just outside of A Coruna. Again a disused railway line but this one still has many of the individual station infrastructure still intact. It’s a bit strange cycling beneath platform height as we follow the route, Reminds me of the scene from St Trinians Great Train Robbery when a number of the pupils glide along the line aboard a pump trolley. It’s a beautiful cycle and we manage 15 miles, We virtually have the route to ourselves and see no more than half a dozen people. Northern Spain is just such a treasure. On the move again tomorrow and once again operation pack the car will commence!!
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