We love a road trip especially when we can drive so for the next 31 days that’s exactly what we’re doing. Over the next 31 days we’ll leave our home in London take the shuttle from Folkestone to Calais and drive from France to Belguim and into Luxembourg our firat stop. We’ll then go into Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Italy, France and Belguim before heading for home. We’ll have 21 nights of camping and 10 in hotels. Fingers crossed the weather will be kind to us!
We take the 06:16 shuttle to Calais, 1 hour earlier than booked as unsurprisingly there’s no one around when we get to Folkestone at 5.45am. I couldn’t sleep so we left when we were ready and got a jump on the day. We board the shuttle swiftly and are on the motorway in Calais at 8am. Brownie’s driving so I sleep. We stop.around 10 and Brownie has a snooze an hour or so after we have a cup of tea and a snack. Traffic is light and moves well despite some roadworks in Belguim.
We ease into Luxembourg and arrive at our campsite for the next 3 nights at around 2pm. Pitching our tent beside the serene River Sure we have a late lunch and go for a well deserved afternoon nap.
The campsite has a good bistro style restaurant and bar and we eat and drink royally. The washblocks are clean and the showers plentiful. Adorning or thermals we retire to bed with woolly hats. It’s freezing but we’re snuggly in our four seasons sleeping bags which are good to minus 11. They did the job when we camped round Iceland so we are in no doubt that they will not keep us warm. Yes we’re absolutely mad but this is the first of many great campsites.
Brownie is full of cold and still has a croaky voice – a legacy of last weekend’s vocal support for our ladies O45s England Hockey Club Championship Finals. However it’s not going to stop us from gettting out and about.
We make a plan to visit the site of the Battle of the Bulge and a number of castles and hopefully if the weather stays fair concluding the day with a cycle. Our first stop is the National Liberation Memorial at Schumannseck, a major memorial site dedicated to one of the bloodiest battles on Luxembourgish soil during World War II. The Battle of the Bulge, specifically between December 27, 1944, and January 21, 1945. Located at a strategic crossroads, Schumannseck was the scene of fierce and deadly trench warfare between American and German forces, resulting in thousands of casualties. For anyone that’s ever watched Band of Brothers its the sobering episode(s) in the pine forests in the snow.
Our next stop is a walk through history. Nestled in the tranquil woods of northern Luxembourg, near the town of Wiltz, lies a place where the silence of nature is interrupted only by echoes of history. The Battle of the Bulge Memorial Trail at Schumannseck isn’t just a walking path it’s a journey through one of the most harrowing chapters of World War II, a place of bloodshed and bravery.
Between December 27, 1944, and January 21, 1945, the area surrounding Schumannseck became one of the deadliest battle zones during the Battle of the Bulge. American and German forces clashed in brutal winter conditions in a desperate struggle for control. Thousands of soldiers perished or were wounded in what became a defining conflict of the Western Front. The crossroads at Schumannseck was of high strategic value, as the Germans were determined to head for Antwerp to block the Allies access to vital petrol supplies at the port. Schumannseck quickly turned into a killing ground marked by fierce trench warfare, bitter cold, and relentless artillery.
We walk the Remembrance Trail, a 3-kilometer loop through the forest, designed to bring visitors face-to-face with the realities of war. Unlike a museum confined by walls, this trail is raw and immersive.
Original foxholes and bomb craters that remain as silent testaments to the chaos of battle.
Reconstructed trenches that help us to visualise the living and fighting conditions of both the Allied and German soldiers.
Life-sized steel silhouettes and archival photos bring the human stories to life, images of young soldiers, civilians, and moments of desperation etched into our memories. QR codes throughout the trail like to an an extensive digital archive, including over 100 videos, audio recordings, and eyewitness accounts.
This isn’t a walk to be rushed. It’s a place to pause, reflect, and connect with history. Its a powerful mermorial, to the bravery of countless men who sacrificed their lives in order to protect Europe. A sombre visit but so worth spending the time contemplating the significance of the Battle of the Bulge and Schumannseck.
Our next stop is the castle of Bourscheid Castle, the origins of which trace back to around the year 1000, built atop earlier Roman and possibly Carolingian foundations. The first recorded mention of the castle is from 1095, referencing Bertram von Bourscheid, the lord of the castle at that time. Over the centuries, the castle underwent several expansions, notably in the 14th and 15th centuries, when it was fortified with a ring wall and multiple towers. By 1430, the castle had reached its current extensive form making it the largest castle in Luxembourg. We take a quick walk into the main entrance to take in the size and then return to the car, sadly its a whistle stop tour today.
We return to the car and head for our next stop, Vianden. A picture-perfect medieval town that feels like it was pulled straight from the pages of a fairy tale. With its cobblestone streets, pastel-colored houses, and scenic river views, Vianden has long been a favorite of artists, poets, and travellers seeking both charm and history. But the crown jewel of this enchanting town is undoubtedly Vianden Castle — a massive, beautifully restored fortress that dominates the skyline and commands attention from every angle.
Perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the Our River, Vianden Castle is one of the most impressive feudal residences in Europe. Originally built between the 11th and 14th centuries on the foundations of a Roman fort and Carolingian refuge, the castle has witnessed centuries of war, decline, and restoration. Today, after decades of meticulous rebuilding, visitors can explore its majestic halls, towers, and chapel while soaking in sweeping views of the valley below. Whether you’re wandering through its Gothic banquet halls or climbing up to its high terraces, Vianden Castle offers a rich and immersive experience—a perfect fusion of Luxembourg’s history, architecture, and natural beauty.
Next stop on this whistle stop tour another castle perched atop a rocky promontory approximately 70 meters above the village of Brandenbourg. Brandenbourg Castle stands as a testament to the region’s rich medieval history. The castle’s origins trace back to the 9th and 10th centuries when a wooden fortification occupied the site. By the 13th century, a stone keep was constructed, which originally had four floors, though only three remain today. The castle underwent significant expansions in the 14th century, including the addition of a chapel, and further developments in the 15th and 16th centuries introduced a bailey, towers, vaulted cellars, and curtain walls. Despite its formidable structure, Brandenbourg Castle faced destruction in 1687 when French forces demolished its external walls, leading to its gradual decline. The castle was inhabited until the mid-18th century before being abandoned and left to deteriorate.
No time to waste as we need to try and get a cycle in before dinner. We drive back to the campsite and get our bikes ready for a cycle along the River Sure to the village of Esch-sur-Sure about 2 miles away.
The route follows the meandering Sûre River, through lush forests and scenic valley views. It’s a gentle ride and the perfect way to end our express sightseeing.
We park our bikes and take the short but steep walk up to the ruins of Esch-sur-Sûre Castle. Perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop surrounded by a natural river bend, the medieval fortress dates back to the 10th century and offers breathtaking views over the village and valley. The ruins are atmospheric, and as we clamber over them with the castle completely to ourselves we imagine knights and nobles surveying the land. and plotting how to repel any would be invaders. It’s the perfect way to end the day.
We return for dinner and some competitive backgammon before settling down to watch Arsenal play PSG in the Champions League. We retire to our chilly tent exhausted after an excellent day. Tomorrow, we’re off to the capital of Luxembourg, Luxembourg (go figure).
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