After 4 nights beside the tranquil Sava River, it’s time to move on and sadly pack and load the car. We’ve had a fantastic time in the pristine nature of the region, it’s been just so invigorating, and we feel very blessed to be able to have spent time here. Our next stop is the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana, but we have a pit-stop to make en route, the eastern shores of Lake Bled. It’s choc-a-block with tourist buses, not something we’d envisaged, so it’s just a brief walk and a photo stop of the island and the castle. The emerald water is clear and inviting, and the only craft allowed on the lake are the iconic pletna boats that are rowed and steered by hand by a solitary oarsman at the rear of the boat. We leave the lakeside serenity and point the car east, towards Ljubljana.
The drive is easy and we locate our hotel in the heart of town. Multiple bags unloaded, we’re here for 3 nights so it’s an opportunity to catch up with our life laundry and reorganise things a bit. We check into our hotel – a very welcome change after 4 nights of tent life! With bags dropped and a quick refresh, we’re eager to plunge into the heart of Ljubljana.
But before we start, let’s have some background to the capital. Beneath Ljubljana’s surface lies a deep history stretching back to Roman times, when it was once the prosperous settlement of Emona. As we prepare to walk its cobblestone streets we’ll be treading on centuries of history, with roots firmly planted in the medieval period as a significant market town For centuries, Ljubljana thrived under Habsburg rule, which shaped much of its elegant Baroque architecture and sophisticated cultural identity. While its past is ancient, much of the city’s iconic look, especially along the river, was masterfully re-envisioned in the early 20th century by the renowned Slovene architect Jože Plečnik, whose modernist touch beautifully blends with the historical. The city has faced its share of challenges, notably surviving a devastating earthquake in 1895. This event, while tragic, spurred a period of significant rebuilding and a flourish of Art Nouveau architecture that adds to its unique charm.
Stepping onto the cobblestone streets feels like entering a storybook. Beautifully preserved Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings line the narrow alleys, their colourful facades inviting us to wander aimlessly. The city’s relaxed, pedestrian-friendly vibe is immediately apparent; it’s a joy to simply stroll, explore where our curiosity takes us and absorb.
After a couple of hours exploring Ljubljana’s delightful streets, our appetites are calling. For dinner, we decide on something a little different from our recent Slovenian fare: a lively Mexican, Patrons Taco and Bar tucked away in the Old Town. The vibrant flavours and casual street food atmosphere are the perfect end to a day where we find ourselves transitioning from alpine calm to bustling city charm. Oh and the margaritas are just fabulous! It’s a delicious and satisfying conclusion to our first taste of Slovenia’s vibrant capital, leaving us eager for more urban adventures tomorrow! We’ll sleep well on crisp cotton sheets in an enormous bed, bliss!
Its a beautiful sunset so I take the opportunity to play with some photo editing filters.
Refreshed after a good nights sleep without the need for thermals it’s time to get out and continue our exploration of Ljubljana. First though, we need to drop off 2 large bags of laundry. We’re running out of clothes so have no choice but to pay the slightly exorbitant cost of 75 Euros and to add insult to injury our laundry won’t be ready for at least 24 hours!!
We’ve signed up for a free walking tour of the city and wander over to Prešeren Square to join our group. There’s around 50 or so people and we’re split in to two groups and assigned our guide. The square itself is a spectacle, dominated by the pink façade of the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation and the famous Triple Bridge. From here, our guided walk into Ljubljana’s past and present begins.
Our guide weaves tales of dragons, roman settlements, devastating earthquakes, and the architectural genius of Jože Plečnik, whose distinctive mark is seemingly everywhere in this city. We wander through charming cobblestone streets, learning about the city’s unique blend of Baroque and Art Nouveau styles. The tour takes us beyond the main sights, down quieter alleys and into unexpected courtyards, revealing the layers of Ljubljana’s rich history. It’s an interesting couple of hours and a great way to learn more about the city. We return to our hotel for a sandwich and a break. Refreshed it’s time to return to the cobbles and continue our exploration of the city.
We head towards the funicular that transports us up to the peak of Castle Hill, Ljubljana Castle largely dates from the 15th and 16th centuries, with evidence suggesting that a Roman fortress once stood on this very spot. From its ancient ramparts, the panoramic vistas stretch from the charming Old Town to the distant Alps. Beyond the breathtaking scenery, this historic landmark has worn many hats over the centuries; it once served as a formidable medieval fortress, endured periods as military barracks, and notably functioned as a brutal provincial prison in the 19th century. Thanks to extensive renovations in the late 20th century after being purchased by the City Municipality of Ljubljana in 1905, it has been lovingly transformed into a vibrant cultural and historical hub. We opt not to buy a ticket to tour the interior of the castle so after spending time wandering the ramparts and admiring the view, we realisei t’s 5pm and time for a cocktail. Tequila-based one for me and a gin-based one for Brownie. Of course, we have another round, it’s sunny and the view over the city and the mountains is great, it seems a shame to leave so soon.
Dinner consists of Slovenian charcuterie and red wine by the river, then it’s just a short walk to Park Zvezda where we go to watch a free concert with the castle looming in the background. Slovenia’s biggest rock band, Sidhartha are playing and our hotel is literally just around the corner. It’s an energetic end to the day and plenty of Slovenian beverages are consumed, we’ll have sore heads in the morning!!
Our last day in Ljubljana begins with a reflective start as we make our way to a photography gallery showcasing the powerful work of Nick Brandt, “The Echo of Our Voices,” the fourth chapter of his compelling “The Day May Break” series. This global project casts a stark light on the profound impact of climate change on both people and animals. This specific chapter, photographed in Jordan—one of the world’s most water-scarce countries—features hauntingly beautiful images of refugee families who fled the war in Syria and now find themselves living in a climate-stressed land. Brandt, a highly acclaimed English photographer, is renowned for his powerful and often haunting work, deeply focused on wildlife, environmental destruction, and humanity’s relationship with a changing planet. If you get the chance take a look at his website to explore his incredible work.
We leave the gallery and continue to walk along the river headed for the Ljubljanica Sluice Gate, One of the many masterpieces of Ljubljana’s celebrated architect, Jože Plečnik, the sluice gate (or river barrier) is a remarkable piece of design and engineering. Located a little further downstream from the city centre, it marks the point where the Ljubljanica River gracefully exits the urban landscape.
Plečnik, with his blend of classical influences and modern functionality, envisioned this as a monumental farewell to the river. Built between 1939 and 1944, the mechanism for controlling the water level is cleverly concealed, leaving only a beautiful stone structure reminiscent of ancient Egyptian temples, adorned with Doric columns As the water cascades gently over the hidden partition, combined with the elegant architecture we’re struck by Plečnik’s vision that even a functional structure could be infused with such form and beauty.
We leave the river and head in the direction of the main station to our next stop, Metelkova Mesto. If you’re looking for polished museums and hushed galleries, this isn’t it. Metelkova is a former military barracks transformed by budding artists, activists, and dreamers into an explosion of street art, sculpture, and alternative culture. Every surface is a canvas. Walls drip with vibrant murals, intricate graffiti, and provoking political statements.
Sculptures crafted from recycled materials poke out from unexpected corners, challenging perceptions and sparking conversations. It’s chaotic, it’s gritty, edgy, and appears to be a hangout for those wishing to place life on pause via alcohol or drugs. Scrawled handwritten notices request that photos are not taken of anyone hanging out here. We have no desire to record it, we’re here to experience the randomness of the creativity. We walk back to the Old Town for an early supper, collect our laundry and return to our hotel to pack. Guess what, we’re on the move again tomorrow.
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