Following a late start and a leisurely breakfast, we finally tear ourselves away from the hotel pool, where we’ve been alternating between the 32-degree sun and shade. It’s already 3:30 PM, and with our organised tour of Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan with Wild Frontiers, beginning tomorrow, this is our last opportunity to explore Tashkent at our own pace.
Our walk takes us first to the very heart of the city: Amir Timur Square. Dominating one side of the square is the iconic Hotel Uzbekistan. A striking, if somewhat grim, example of Soviet brutalism, its massive concrete and metal facade looms over the square—a testament to the architectural style of a bygone era. While the interior has reportedly been renovated with a modern, luxurious touch, the exterior remains a powerful and unappealing relic of its Soviet-era origins.
In the center of the square stands a towering equestrian statue of Amir Timur, the 14th-century Turco-Mongol conqueror and founder of the Timurid Empire, a vast realm that once encompassed much of Central Asia. Revered as a national hero in modern Uzbekistan, his image on horseback symbolizes the country’s deep historical roots and its pride in a heritage that predates Soviet rule.
Just a stone’s throw away is a much more recent architectural marvel: the Palace of International Forums. Inaugurated in 2009 to celebrate the city’s 2,200th anniversary, this grand building is a showcase of modern Uzbek design, blending traditional motifs with sleek, contemporary lines. Its exterior, adorned with intricate ornaments and a massive dome, gives way to an interior that is said to be opulent, featuring marble from Greece, and an enormous chandelier dripping with more than a million Swarovski crystals. While the palace is primarily used for state events, concerts, and international conferences, its lavish design serves as a powerful symbol of the nation’s progress and its aspirations on the global stage.
The juxtaposition of these two buildings—the brutalist Hotel Uzbekistan and the lavish Palace of International Forums—offers a visual summary of the country’s complex history. For much of the 20th century, all of Central Asia, including what is now Uzbekistan, was under the iron-fisted control of the Soviet Union. Moscow’s rule was marked by political repression, the suppression of traditional cultures and languages, and a forced transformation of the economy, particularly through the imposition of a cotton monoculture. Yet, the Soviets also brought a degree of modernization, building infrastructure, establishing industries, and, in some cases, preserving ancient architectural monuments. The legacy of this era is a deep and often painful one, with the present-day nations of Central Asia still navigating the difficult process of defining their identities, cultures, and economies in the wake of decades of Soviet influence. One strong legacy is just how many people speak Russian across the continent.
A short walk from the square takes us to Kashgar Park, a pleasant green space named after the ancient Silk Road city in modern-day China. The park serves as a reminder of the historical connections and trade routes that once linked these distant cities, and it provides a welcome, tranquil escape from the bustling city streets. The sun creating rainbows as it glints through the Cotton plant fountain.
We walk across to Independence Square and on through into Ankhor Park. Tashkent is a beautifully green city with countless shady spots to escape the fierce summer heat. We continue our walk through the park to the memorial flame a powerful and significant monument dedicated to the 400,000 Uzbek soldiers who died during World War II. It is a central feature of the Square of Memory and Honor (Mustaqillik Maydoni) and is often referred to as the Eternal Flame.
The Sorrowful Mother Statue: The most prominent feature of the memorial is a statue of a grieving mother. She is depicted with a bowed head, symbolizing her mourning for her sons who never returned from the war. A perpetual flame burns in front of the statue, symbolizing the undying memory and honor of the fallen soldiers. Every year on May 9, which is celebrated as the Day of Memory and Honour in Uzbekistan, official ceremonies are held at the memorial to honour the veterans and fallen soldiers of the war.
The Alley of Memory: The memorial includes a series of galleries with carved pillars. On granite walls within these galleries, the names of every Uzbek soldier who died in the war are meticulously inscribed in gold letters. This personalization makes the memorial a deeply meaningful site for families from all 14 regions of Uzbekistan and visitors alike.
The memorial complex was established in 1999 by then-President Islam Karimov, replacing a previous monument to the “Unknown Soldier” that had stood in the same location since the Soviet era. The change from a “Tomb of the Unknown Soldier” to the current memorial was a way to shift the focus from a Soviet-centric narrative to one that honoured the individual sacrifice of Uzbek citizens. The site is a place of profound national importance and is visited by many people, who come to pay their respects and lay flowers.
From this site of quiet contemplation, we begin the final leg of our walk and head north toward the Minor Mosque. As the afternoon light begins to soften, casting a golden hue over the city, the modern buildings give way to a more tranquil landscape. We arrive just as the sun begins to set, bathing the mosque’s brilliant white marble in a warm, ethereal glow.
The Minor Mosque, a relatively new but no less stunning addition to the city’s skyline, is a masterpiece of modern Islamic architecture. Its striking design, with a turquoise dome and intricate blue-and-white tiling, stands out against the darkening sky. The absence of a large, bustling madrasah or market gives it a serene, almost contemplative atmosphere, and the peaceful scene as the last rays of light fade is a perfect end to our day of exploration.
With the sun now gone and the city lights beginning to flicker on, we find a quiet spot for a much-needed drink, reflecting on our long and enjoyable walk. We flag down a taxi and head back to the restaurant we visited last night, but this time, we show more restraint, limiting ourselves to just one glass of wine each. After a quick walk back to the hotel, we collapse into bed. We’ll sleep well tonight—our fitness app confirms we’ve walked over seven miles, a perfect end to our day of exploring Tashkent
Leave a Reply