Today, we’re on the move again, and after 24 hours without food, I’m finally feeling a slightly better. I worked out it was the salad that did it and for those of you that know me well, now you know why I’m a salad dodger!! Bags packed, we’re leaving Samarkand by high-speed train, headed for Bukhara, a journey of approximately 1 hour and 40 minutes. Fortunately, it’s not an early start, with our departure time a leisurely 11 a.m.
Back onboard the exceptionally comfortable Uzbekistan high-speed train, which once again whisks us through the Kyzylkum Desert. This immense stretch of land—the 15th largest desert in the world—spans approximately 300,000 square kilometers across Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Turkmenistan. As we speed along, we’re reminded of the countless Silk Road merchants who once spent weeks traversing the same immense, sun-scorched sandy red terrain
Bukhara, often called “Noble Bukhara,” is a city steeped in over 2,500 years of history. As a key hub on the ancient Silk Road, it has evolved from an oasis trading post into a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its remarkably well-preserved medieval urban fabric. Bukhara’s history is a rich tapestry with a long succession of empires and cultures. The City’s roots trace back to at least 500BC, with archaeological evidence suggestion that the oasis was inhabited a millennia earlier. Its location on the Silk Road made it a critical centre for commerce and cultural exchange between Persia, India, China and Russia.
Our driver meets us at Bukhara station and we’re quickly whisked us to our hotel, Sasha & Son. Tucked away in the old Jewish quarter, this family-run boutique hotel is set within a beautifully restored, traditionally decorated former merchant’s house, immediately immersing us in local charm.
Since it’s too early to check in, we drop our bags and walk to lunch at Joy restaurant, a wonderfully unique spot that has integrated an old bathhouse into its interior design. Whilst Brownie enjoys lunch I settle for nibbling on some bread, still easing back into eating after Samarkand sickness — a proper meal would be some way off as it would turn out!!
Our walking tour begins at the Lyab-i Hauz Complex, truly the tranquil heart of the city. The name means “around the pool” in Persian, and it survives as one of the few historical ponds left in Bukhara after Soviet-era efforts to drain them for sanitation. We found ourselves surrounded by the majestic Nadir Divan-Beghi Madrasah, the Khanaka, and the Kukeldash Madrasah, forming a spectacular tableau of 17th-century Bukharian life.
Nearby, we wandered across the square and passed a beautifully converted mosque that once had a brief life as a nightclub and now sells gorgeous, intricate carpets—a perfect example of Bukhara’s layered history.
Ilydr then leads us straight into the city’s ancient covered bazaars, or tocks, which are an absolutely integral part of Bukhara’s historical fabric. These domed structures, once bustling with Silk Road traders from across Asia and Europe, are a feast for the senses.
We navigated the Tock-i-Sarrafon (Dome of the Moneychangers) and the Tock-i-Telpak Furushon (Dome of the Headwear Sellers). The air was thick with the aroma of spices as we marvelled at vibrant displays of colorful textiles, hand-painted ceramics, carved wooden boxes, and handmade jewelry. Wandering these historic passageways felt like stepping into an era when a simple journey could bring the treasures of an entire continent to one place.
We took a moment to appreciate the artistry that still thrives here. At a traditional Miniature Painting & Calligraphy Workshop, we watched skilled artists painstakingly create delicate masterpieces with the finest brushes. Then, we stopped at a silk carpet workshop to witness the intricate, time-consuming process of weaving these world-renowned rugs.
The climax of our afternoon is a visit to the Po-i-Kalyan Complex, the undeniable spiritual heart of Bukhara. The name translates to “Pedestal of the Great,” referring to the towering Kalyan Minaret (sometimes known as the “Tower of Death”). This minaret has stood sentinel over the city for nearly 900 years, its intricate brickwork a genuine marvel of engineering that famously survived Genghis Khan’s invasion.
Flanking it are the immense Kalyan Mosque, one of Central Asia’s largest, and the beautiful Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, a still-functioning and highly important Islamic school.
We rounded off our daytime exploration at the Chor Minor Madrasah (meaning “Four Minarets”). Built in 1807, this structure is actually the decorative gatehouse for a now-destroyed madrasah complex, known for its distinct design that features four minaret-like towers topped with blue domes.
Finally, we visited the Samani Mausoleum, a masterpiece of 10th-century Islamic architecture. Distinguished by its symmetrical, basket-weave brickwork, it is considered one of Central Asia’s finest monuments, where the intricate patterns shift and glow with the fading afternoon light.
Exhausted after a full-on afternoon of sightseeing, we head back to the hotel. On the way, we book a traditional hamam (bathhouse) session for the following afternoon—fingers crossed we don’t regret it! As we walk the final stretch to our hotel we stumble on a group of large animal models being prepared for a parade. We discover that these are part of tomorrow’s opening night ceremony for the inaugural Bukhara Biennale.
Time to check-in to our hotel and take a nap. Ildyr has a well-deserved night-off this evening so Brownie and Rebecca head out to a bar for a more liquid evening meal. After a much-needed nap (which sees me skip liquid dinner) Brownie excitedly returns talking animatedly about just how beautiful the city is after dark and suggests I come out and take a walk.
Oh my word I’m rewarded with an enchanting walk. We revisit the main sites, but now they’re illuminated under the night sky. The sight of the Po-i-Kalyan Mosque and Minaret lit up was truly breathtaking—a moment of pure magic and the perfect, reflective end to a day that felt less like a tour and more like stepping directly into history.
We’ll sleep well tonight it’s been another fantastic day.
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