Every expert agrees that the winter of 2025/2026 is poised to deliver one of the solar cycle’s most spectacular displays of the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). This natural, electrifying phenomenon shines brightest against the dark, clear backdrop of Arctic winter skies, and with the peak predicted, it’s a sight high on our travel wish list. We’re in Norway for 15 days, a country renowned for its breathtaking, pristine landscapes and perfectly positioned within the prime viewing zone. We’ve got our fingers firmly crossed that we’ll get to experience a once-in-a-lifetime light show!
Day One: Arrival in the Rainy City
Our adventure begins as we fly into Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city, a place where centuries of history meet breathtaking natural beauty. Nestled picturesquely on the southwestern coast, Bergen is famously framed by seven surrounding mountains and serves as the quintessential “Gateway to the Fjords.” The city has a reputation for being one of Europe’s rainiest, but we’re ready. As the locals wisely say, “There’s no bad weather, only bad clothing.” Fortunately, we have bags full of quality gear to protect us from whatever the weather brings! We take the airport bus into the heart of the city, check in, and get ready to explore. It’s icy and freezing, so we layer up against the crisp air before stepping out, buzzing with excitement.
A High Start on Mount Fløyen
Our first mission is the Fløibanen Funicular, which swiftly whisks us up to Mount Fløyen. Despite the early morning start (we’ve been up since 3:30am!), the reward is instantaneous. As we reach the snowy summit, the panoramic view is nothing short of spectacular. We’re afforded a breathtaking vista of the city below, its colorful harbour shimmering, framed by the majestic surrounding mountains. We walk the snowy paths around the summit, continually marveling at the sheer scale of the landscape from our viewing platform, breathing in the crisp, invigorating mountain air.
Evening in the Old Town
After descending the funicular, we plunge into the energy of the old town. We explore the quaint cobbled streets and narrow alleyways, where the blend of old and new architecture glows with warmth from a myriad of lights. It’s the perfect atmosphere for an evening wind-down. We soon find a welcoming spot to enjoy a well-deserved local beer (or two!) before finding an excellent Burmese restaurant for a great seafood dinner. Completely shattered yet incredibly excited for the fjord journeys and aurora hunting ahead, we return to our hotel, already in love with the charm of Bergen although we’re not quite used to the weather yet. It’s minus 7 and bloody freezing as we walk back to our hotel!!
Day Two: Smoked Salmon, Stockfish, Bryggen, and Snowfall
After an excellent night’s sleep, we wake up ready for action—and for breakfast! Fuelled by a magnificent spread that included a mountain of soft, buttery smoked salmon, it’s time to dive into the history of Bergen.
We bundle up warmly and step out directly onto the timbers of the historic Bryggen Wharf. This is where the story of Bergen, founded around 1070 AD by King Olav Kyrre, truly took shape. Bryggen was the epicenter of a massive trade network centered on stockfish (dried cod) from Northern Norway. By the early 13th century, Bergen was functioning as the capital, but its defining era came with the Hanseatic League. Starting in the 14th century, North German merchants established one of their four main trading offices (Kontore) at Bryggen.
For nearly 400 years, the area was dominated by this German community. The merchants lived in their separate quarter, conducting trade in Middle Low German, and enjoying exclusive rights to trade with the northern fishermen. Today, the iconic rows of leaning wooden buildings, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are the rebuilt Hanseatic offices and warehouses. Though the current structures date mostly from after the Great Fire of 1702, they have been faithfully rebuilt following the original medieval street pattern.
As we wander through the closely packed rows, we were immediately transported back to its medieval days. The atmosphere is extraordinary; you truly feel as if you when you turn a corner and you might bump in to a merchant overseeing a delivery of dried cod.
We continue our wander along the waterfront and through the retail district when the magic happens: thick, white, fluffy snow began to fall. It’s the kind of snow that settles quickly and instantly brings a big smile to our faces, turning the city into a sparkling winter wonderland. We walk for an hour, soaking up the winter charm, but the chilly air eventually wins. We adjourn back to our cozy hotel for a quick thaw-out and some downtime.
Dinner and Christmas Lights
As evening approaches, it’s time for dinner. We walk towards the famous Fisketorget (Fish Market) area to find the modern Mathallen, Bergen’s bustling indoor food hall. This contemporary space continues the city’s ancient tradition as a seafood hub, offering everything from fresh catches to prepared dishes. It’s right on the waterfront and beautifully illuminated. We chose a spot and indulge in some moules frites and mixed seafood meze — a delicious reminder of the city’s maritime history.
After dinner, with fresh snow still dusting the ground, we take a post-dinner walk. Bergen is beautifully illuminated for Christmas, and we make our way to the festive scene by the lake. The Christmas Market there, though a bijou affair, is bright and full of cheer. We take a tranquil stroll all the way around the lake, enjoying the spectacle of the lights reflecting off the water and the quiet, festive beauty of the city.
We wrap up our evening with a leisurely walk back to the hotel, taking a detour through the old town via a couple of cozy hostelries. Here, we discover the delights of local brewing: I’ve taken a real liking to a local brewery’s delicious, alcoholic ginger beer. At the second bar, we find an even stronger, wonderfully spiced Christmas brew that’s truly scrummy—the perfect, warm finish to a perfect day of exploration. We’re on the move tomorrow, so we make our way back to the hotel to commence the necessary task of repacking, full of contentment and ready for the next chapter of our Norwegian adventure.
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