Day 1
Another mountain of that incredible Norwegian smoked salmon powers us through breakfast—it’s the fuel we need to set up for the day ahead. Bags packed, we check out of the hotel and store our luggage with reception, ready for an exciting rendezvous later this afternoon. With a few hours to spare, we decide to get off the beaten path and explore another side of Bergen.
Yesterday’s beautiful snowfall has vanished, and the outside temperature has actually improved by about six degrees. The reason for this warmth, however, is a classic Bergen weather trait: the persistent rain. As the city is famously one of the rainiest in Europe—receiving an average of 2,250mm of precipitation per year—a spike in temperature often means the maritime air is pushing rain in, melting the snow.
Armed with our hotel’s complimentary umbrellas, we head toward the Aquarium of Bergen—but not to visit the fish tanks. The area surrounding Nordnes Peninsula, where the Aquarium sits, is a fantastic spot to escape the main tourist crush and offers two distinct photographic opportunities. Down by the Docks: We explore the industrial parts of the harbour area. Here, we find some vibrant graffiti and street art, a stark, modern contrast to the historic centre. It’s an interesting pocket of urban decay and creativity that reveals a different side of the city’s culture. Up on the Hill (Nordnes): The residential streets climbing the hill behind the Aquarium are lined with traditional, tightly packed wooden houses. Walking these cobbled lanes offers a glimpse into Bergen’s local life and architecture, far removed from the UNESCO-listed Bryggen wharf.
It’s the perfect way to spend a drizzly late morning early afternoon: wandering where the locals live, seeking out the less-polished, but equally fascinating, corners of this famous, rain-swept city before we move on to our next adventure!
We return to our hotel, collect our bags, and bundle them into a taxi bound for the Bergen Port Terminal. We are about to board the famous Norwegian Coastal Express route, a journey steeped in history and often referred to as simply Hurtigruten (meaning “The Fast Route”). Since its inception in 1893, this coastal express has been Norway’s absolute essential lifeline, doing far more than carrying tourists; it connects isolated communities along the rugged coastline with mail, cargo, and passengers.
The Route: 34 Ports, Twice
Over the next 12 days, we’re embarking on a 2,500-nautical-mile (4,630 km) odyssey. Our journey begins in Bergen, tracing the coastline all the way to Kirkenes at the Russian border before turning back around. The magic of this route lies in its 34 distinct ports of call; we’ll visit every single one twice—once heading north and again on the return south—offering two unique perspectives on Norway’s rugged beauty. This adventure allows us to marvel at the sheer scale of Norway’s fractured coastline, where towering cliffs and hidden inlets reveal a new wonder at every turn.
This double stop is a legacy of the Coastal Express’s mission. The schedule is designed so that many smaller communities receive essential services—such as mail, cargo deliveries, or passenger drop-offs—at various times throughout the day, depending on the direction of travel. The return journey is not just a simple repeat; the schedule changes, the light hits the fjords from different angles, and ports that were visited in the dead of night on the way up are now explored during the daylight hours. It’s important to note that the Polar Night officially commences on November 27th, but the sun has already begun its slow descent below the horizon. As we journey further north, the amount of daylight we’ll experience will diminish significantly.
We check in, have our photos taken, and are given our passes that we must carry at all times. We will need to show these as we disembark and board the ship, as well as whenever we make any on-board purchases. Our luggage is whisked away, to reappear at our cabin door later. As we board the ship, we head straight to the 9th-floor bar for a glass of champagne. It’s all very exciting, and we’re eager to set sail. The ship is not scheduled to depart until 8 PM, we take the opportunity to explore our home for the next 12 days. There are six passenger decks on the ship: Deck 4 houses the gangway, reception, cabins, and laundry; Deck 5 features more cabins and laundry; Deck 6 includes two restaurants, café, excursion office, conference area, shop, and seating areas with huge windows. Deck 7, where we’re located, has cabins, a gym, and outdoor decks. Deck 8 features two exclusive lighthouse cabins, saunas, two outdoor jacuzzis, an outdoor bar, and ample room to wander around. Finally, Deck 9 boasts a bar, lounge and a panorama deck that allows us to stroll the length of the ship at leisure. This ship is not a cruise; after all, it is a working ferry, albeit a luxurious one.
The Ethos: Silent, Sustainable, and Small-Scale
Beyond the itinerary, the true heart of this journey lies in Havila’s quiet revolution of coastal travel. Their fleet represents a new era of eco-conscious engineering, utilizing the world’s largest maritime battery packs to glide through UNESCO-protected fjords in near-total silence. This unusual stillness isn’t just a luxury for the passengers; it’s a mark of respect for the fragile marine ecosystems and the quiet coastal communities we visit. When not running on battery, the ships utilize Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG) and are increasingly incorporating biogas, a transition that slashes carbon emissions and keeps the Arctic air remarkably crisp.
Once we’ve explored our new home, we locate our cabin, and to our delight find a wonderful welcome gift! Champers relocated to the fridge we unpack our bags, and wander down to the 6th floor to find the main restaurant. Our dinner slot for the duration of the voyage is 7.30pm!
A Culinary Connection to the Coast
This Company’s philosophy extends from the engine room to the dinner plate. Havila prides itself on a unique dining experience that highlights the connection between food and the stunning landscapes we will traverse. Eschewing the traditional, waste-heavy cruise buffet, their “Food Lab” concept focuses on a hyper-local, à la carte experience. Each menu is thoughtfully crafted to showcase regional produce and culinary traditions, ensuring every meal reflects the essence of the surrounding geography. This commitment not only enhances the dining experience but also supports local communities and minimizes food waste through carefully designed portions—though we are encouraged to request more if our appetites demand it.
For the first three days of our voyage, we’ll indulge in The Fjords menu, inspired by the rich marine and agricultural bounty of the south. Our introductory dinner is a revelation: starter choices a gin-cured salmon and a rich forest mushroom cappuccino soup, followed by mains of succulent Norwegian lamb and fresh North Sea haddock. We finished the evening with a chocolate mousse with a cream liqueur and blackberries and a refreshing apple sorbet from Storfjord. Each bite indicates that our culinary journey over the next 12 days will be as extraordinary as the views.
As the final plates are cleared, we ascend to the top deck to witness our departure. From the vantage of Deck 9, we watch the Bergen skyline slowly fade into the night, the ship slipping quietly into the dark waters to begin our journey north. Next stop the open sea, the Atlantic Ocean!
Settling into the Swell
As the lights of Bergen finally dip below the horizon, we retreat to our cabin to unpack and organise for the days ahead. Tomorrow promises a highlight of the trip: after breakfast, we’ll disembark at Ålesund to join an all-day excursion to the UNESCO World Heritage site, Geirangerfjord.
We settle into bed, letting the gentle rocking of the ship lull us toward sleep. We are well aware that November in the Atlantic brings a reputation for unpredictable weather and temperamental swells. Brownie, whose sea legs are admittedly a work in progress, has come prepared with a generous amount of “Calms.” While I generally have a stronger stomach for the waves, the ocean is a great equalizer—only time will tell how we fare. The night does indeed prove to be a bit rocky, but the ship’s rhythmic motion eventually wins out, and we drift off into a deep, well-earned sleep, ready for the wonders of the fjords to meet us at sunrise.
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