Day 2
We are still finding our feet with the unique rhythm of coastal life. Our first call is Florø at 2:45 am. We’re jolted awake as the ship begins its delicate docking dance, but with only 15 minutes at anchor and the ungodliness of the hour, we decided to stay tucked under the duvet and return to sleep. By the time we reach Måløy at 5:15 am, we were dead to the world—missing this one entirely!
By Torvik at 8:20 am, we’re finally up and ready to witness the precision of these short port stays. It was a quick glimpse of local life before the morning rush began.
We head to breakfast now with one eye on the clock; we dock in Ålesund at 9:45 am, and with a much-anticipated excursion on the horizon, we can’t afford to be a minute late. Breakfast is a la carte and in keeping with the excellent food we experienced at dinner. Creamy scrambled eggs, buttery smoked salmon, cereals, Norwegian breads, chacuterie, cheeses etc etc. We’ll have plenty of time to enjoy breakfast at leisure in the days ahead but for now we need to get ourselves ready for the day ahead and ensure that we have plenty of layers.
Into the Heart of the Fjords
Bundled up in our warmest gear and carrying a backup supply of layers, we joined our group on the dockside in Ålesund to board a smaller vessel for the three-hour journey toward Geiranger. Shortly after departing, our Fjord Ranger shared some unexpected news: parts of the inner fjord had frozen over, meaning we wouldn’t be able to cruise all the way to Geiranger by water. While initially disappointed, I spoke with the Ranger, who assured me that this was actually a blessing in disguise. By disembarking at Eidsdal and travelling the rest of the way by coach, we would gain a unique perspective of the landscape that most water-bound travelers miss. His genuine enthusiasm was infectious, quickly dispelling our letdown and leaving Brownie and me eager to see what lay ahead.
The next three hours were an education in the wild beauty of Norway. As we cruised, the Rangers shared fascinating insights into the local shipyards, the history of impossibly remote cliffside farms, and the complex geology and ecology that define this region. Despite the biting November chill, we frequently braved the open upper deck—adding extra layers each time—to capture countless photos and simply marvel at the majesty of the landscape as it unfolded, grand and silent, before us.
The Eagle’s Path: From Eidsdal to the Fjord
Stepping off the boat at Eidsdal, we traded the water for a coach to begin our ascent into the mountains. As we climbed higher, the autumn colors vanished, replaced by a thick, pristine blanket of white. Our first stop was at the serene Lake Aarset, which looked like something out of a fairy tale. The area was buried in deep snow, muffling every sound and turning the lake into a quiet, icy mirror. The air was incredibly crisp, and the heavy drifts gave us our first real taste of the true Norwegian winter. We were the only people there.
The Eagle’s Gaze: The Icebound Fjord Revealed
The real adrenaline began as we approached Ørnesvingen, famously known as the Eagle Road. As we pulled over and stepped out of the coach to walk toward the icy viewpoint, the sheer cold became visible; the dark roadside rocks were armoured in thick, sharp icicles that clung to the stone like jagged glass. And there it was: Geirangerfjord, laid out before us like a pristine, frozen masterpiece. A vast, glittering expanse of white and grey ice, hugging the towering, snow-dusted cliffs. From this height, the Geirangerfjord stretched out in all its UNESCO-protected glory. Because parts of the water were slightly frozen, the fjord was hauntingly still – there were no boats below, leaving the deep blue ribbon of water perfectly undisturbed between the towering, vertical cliffs.
Reboarding the coach we take Eagle Road a stretch of tarmac plunges toward the water via 11 hair-raising serpentine turns. As we navigated the steep descent, we were rewarded with frequent views of the Fjord. Reaching the village of Geiranger felt like entering a winter wonderland. The town was cloaked in snow, giving it a peaceful, “end-of-the-world” atmosphere. We began at the Fjordwise Visitor Centre, where we learned more about how this dramatic landscape was carved by ice over millennia. Geiranger was inducted as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2005. It’s often cited as the “archetypical” fjord—the perfect example of how ice ages carved deep channels into high mountains. The fjord is 10 miles long and reaches depths of up to 850 feet, while the surrounding peaks tower over 5,500 feet above the water.
From there, we took the famous Waterfall Walk. This path follows the thundering Storfossen waterfall as it plunges down the mountainside toward the sea. In November, the walk is a spectacular study in contrasts: the roar of the rushing white water competes with the eerie silence of the ice-slicked rocks. The 327 steps allowed us to feel the power of the water as it raced us down to the fjord’s edge. By the time we reached the shore, surrounded by the silence of the frozen fjord and the towering mountains, we felt completely immersed in the raw, crystalline beauty of the Norwegian wilderness. It’s Sunday and the village is almost deserted we take a moment to appreciate the peace and stillness.
By 4:15 PM, we were back on the coach for the return ascent up the Eagle Road. It was a fascinating watch as smaller cars gave way to our driver, who skillfully swept the coach through the wide, icy turns. Once back on the boat, with the sun now firmly below the horizon, we tucked into a “Geiranger Tapas” snack box. It was a brilliant touch—packed with local flavors that provided the perfect savory fuel after our walk. We feasted on local cold meats, smoked rainbow trout, cheese, blackcurrant marmelade and crispbreads. As the temperature outside plummeted, the cozy cabin became an irresistible sanctuary. I allowed myself a gentle snooze as the boat powered through the dark, icy fjord waters back toward Ålesund.
Returning to the Havila Capella, we felt tired but utterly exhilarated. We realised then that missing the cruise through the frozen fjord hadn’t been a disappointment at all; instead, it was an unexpected gift. We had been granted a rare, silent, and raw glimpse into Geiranger’s winter heart that few travelers ever see. It was a reminder that when nature throws a curveball, the most memorable adventures often unfold.
Northward Bound
After a quick pitstop to drop our gear in the cabin, we hurried to the restaurant. As we sat down to another round of exceptional Norwegian cuisine, the ship slipped its moorings at 8:00pm, gliding silently back into the open sea. Over a well-deserved glass of wine, we sat in a daze, recounting the day’s highlights. To witness one of the world’s natural wonders in such a pristine, wintry state felt like a true privilege.
Later that evening, we made a brief 30-minute stop at Molde. While we stayed tucked away in our cabin, we peered out the window at the twinkling lights of the town, reminding ourselves that this modest port town gave the football world both Erling Haaland and Ole Gunnar Solskjær. With those trivia notes tucked away and our minds still marvelling at the icy peaks of Geiranger, we turned in for the night. Sleep, we knew, would come very easily tonight.
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