Day 7
Turning the Tide: Crossing the Arctic Frontier
Today marks a pivotal moment in our Norwegian coastal odyssey. As we dock in Kirkenes, the ship officially prepares to pivot, turning its bow south to begin the five-day return voyage to Bergen. But before the southward trek begins, we have an Arctic frontier to explore.
A Morning in the High North
As has become our tradition, we sleep right through the midnight call at Båtsfjord and the 3:30 am stop in Vardø. However, the 6:55 am arrival in Vadsø serves as the perfect natural alarm clock. We need to be fuelled by a hearty breakfast and ready to disembark by 9:15 am for a morning of adventure.
But first, some background on Kirkenes a fascinating place—a true frontier town where East meets West, sitting just a stone’s throw from the Russian border. It’s one of the most historically unique towns in Norway, largely due to its extreme northeastern location and its complex relationship with the Russian border. For centuries, it was a quiet area for Skolt Sami reindeer herders. Everything changed in 1906 when iron ore was discovered in nearby Bjørnevatn. This led to the founding of the mining company A/S Sydvaranger, transforming Kirkenes into a major industrial hub almost overnight. By WWI, the population had exploded from a few families to 8,000 people. During World War II, Kirkenes was a high-stakes strategic target. It served as a major base for German forces (the Kriegsmarine and Luftwaffe) to launch attacks on the Soviet port of Murmansk, 150 miles away. Because of its proximity to the front lines, it was subjected to at least 320 Soviet air raids. It is often cited as the most bombed place in Europe after Malta. Civilians lived in absolute terror, often taking shelter in Andersgrotta, a massive underground bunker, or in the iron mines. It’s estimated that up to 3,000 people lived in the mines for months. As German forces retreated in 1944, they burned almost the entire town to the ground. Only 13 houses survived the war. On October 25, 1944, Kirkenes became the first town in Norway to be liberated from Nazi occupation, which was achieved by the Soviet Red Army.
A Borderland Culture
The border between Norway and Russia was only finalized in 1826. Before that, the region was a “common district” where residents paid taxes to both the Norwegian and Russian crowns. For decades, the border near Kirkenes was one of only two places where NATO met the Soviet Union (the other was in Turkey). This created a unique “spy town” atmosphere. Today, the town is considered the “capital of the Barents Region.” Street signs are in both Latin and Cyrillic scripts, and the population is a mix of Norwegians, Sami, Russians, and Finns. Despite being in Western Europe, Kirkenes is actually located further east than Istanbul and Saint Petersburg.
While many travelers head out for the famous King Crab safaris, we had our sights set on something a bit more “paws-on”: the Snow Hotel, located about 30 minutes outside of town.
Reindeer, Huskies, and Heavy Layers
Upon arrival, our first mission is simple: survival. We don heavy, all-in-one snow suits to combat the -6°C chill. Even with our own layers, the extra insulation is a godsend. Our first stop is a visit with the local reindeer. They are surprisingly greedy, but their muzzles are incredibly soft as they “hoover” food right out of your palms. Being that close to such gentle creatures was fab.
Next, we head to the kennels—home to a staggering 180 dogs! Brownie is in her element, letting the excitable dogs jump all over her. I, however, play it safe. Despite a preemptive antihistamine, I wasn’t about to risk a sneezing fit in the middle of the tundra!
The Magic of the Sled
The dogs are a “Heinz 57” mix of breeds, specifically bred for their strength and stamina. Our young driver tucks us into the sled—a tight squeeze thanks to our ten layers of clothing—and we’re off.
The experience is nothing short of magical. We glide alongside a frozen lake, navigating a 5km loop twice. In the silence of the Arctic, all we can hear is the rhythmic padding of paws and the slide of the runners on ice. It is pure, icy tranquility.
Before heading back to the ship, we take a quick tour of the Ice Hotel. The ice bar is a work of art, but one look at the frozen beds confirms our suspicions: we’ll stick to our warm cabin, thank you very much!
The Voyage South Begins
We depart Kirkenes at 12:30 pm, officially starting the 5-day trip back to Bergen. After another stellar lunch, Brownie heads down to the lecture area for an excursions briefing. She returns to recount that one of the points of interest is Bronoysund, where there’s a visit to a salmon farm in 2 days time to learn about the whole process. However, at this time of year the farm is under going maintenance and there’s no fish present- seriously. We’ll pass on that one!!
Braving the Barents Sea
As night falls, the conditions turn “authentic.” By the time we hit Berlevåg at 10:40 pm, it’s -1°C (feeling more like -6°C) with 20mph winds. The ship is really earning its keep, navigating a rocky ride through the Barents Sea as we push toward Mehamn. It’s a reminder that while the Arctic is beautiful, it’s still the boss and has granted us with yet another memorable day!
Leave a Reply